Nam Dinh

EXPLORING THE LAND OF CHURCHES

in Nam Dinh

 

For many Vietnamese Catholics, Nam Dinh province is regarded as a Holy Land. That’s because it is home to an abundance of beautiful churches, some of the most beautiful in Vietnam. It is not common in Vietnam that you might see one church so close to another (sometimes just 20 meters apart).

 

Each church in Nam Dinh has its own unique design. As you would expect most of them are inspired by Western Gothic architecture and feature distinctive arches. Walking around the premises of these churches, you might imagine you be in a western country where churches are more common.

 

 

With hundreds of magnificent and splendid churches, Nam Dinh has in recent years become a destination for tourists, who wish to explore this architectural heritage.

 

During my last trip with some friends, I also visited many churches in Nam Dinh. One of the most famous churches with incredible French architecture is the Bui Chu church which is more than a hundred years old. I also loved Do Church in Hai Ly - Hai Hau, which is covered with moss and stands as a relic of the time facing the sea. There is also Phu Nhai Church in Xuan Phuong commune, Xuan Truong district.

 

However, every time I have had the opportunity to return to Nam Dinh, I am still amazed by the random, less-famous churches on the side of the road that I suddenly pass by.

 

During a chilly season in the North of Vietnam, my son - an architect with a great passion for photography - agreed when I suggested we take a trip together to Nam Dinh. My friend, who was born and raised in Nam Dinh, had volunteered to act as our guide and drive me and my son in his car on this special trip to this holy land. The weather on that day happened to be a little cool but the land was bathed in wonderful golden sunlight. We were already excited to see what perfect photos we would be able to take.

 

The story of a priest

On the way to Nam Dinh, I recalled the last conversation I'd had with Father Phung - a priest at Khoai Dong church in Nam Dinh city - when I’d been visiting some of the statues in various churches.

 

Father Phung has bright eyes, and a warm, gentle voice, and is about 30 years old. He happily welcomed me when I walked into the church and, at first, I was confused, not knowing how to call him properly, he quickly greeted me as an older woman. From his very humble way of addressing me, our conversation seemed to be more informal and open than I had expected. I was also impressed by his extensive knowledge in many fields, such as architecture, culture, and new technological materials.

 

 

From openly sharing his expertise, I learned that in order to become a priest, one has to spend a long time studying, practicing self-discipline, and overcoming challenges. If you are a fresh graduate, you will have to study for about four years; if you have just finished high school, you have to spend eight years studying and training at the seminary.

 

A priest will have to study theology, carefully study the Bible, learn all about the Church's teachings and acquire many more skills to become a priest. A priest who wants to live up to his identity, and fulfill the mission of God well, need to be wise, kind, and Christian. As training for the priesthood is both long and arduous, not many young people dare to follow this religious path. Even though there are more than 100 parishes in Nam Dinh, there are not as many priests these days.

 

Mr. Phung has faced many challenges in a number of churches, not just in Vietnam. He used to work as a church-keeping staff in Thailand and Malaysia as well as in Lam Dong province (in Vietnam). Following that he went to Khoai Dong church in Nam Dinh city. He told me when you finish your internship at a church, if there is only one complaint from any of the parishioners or some criticism from the head priest, the internship must be started all over again, right from the beginning!

 

 

Now I understand that the parishioners put all their faith in God, and in turn, the priest. In addition to possessing a piece of profound knowledge, each priest must also be virtuous, compassionate, and absolutely dedicated to caring for their ‘flock’ (the parishioners).

 

New discoveries

On my latest trip with my son and friend, our first destination is Kim Thanh Parish Church located in Hai Van commune, Hai Hau district. On a previous business trip, I'd passed by this church. Observed from the street, I can only see the top of the church, but I had guessed it is very beautiful when seen close up. Sure enough, the church is much nicer than I expected. 

 

The church was reconstructed from 2002 to 2008. Although 12 years have passed since then, the church just looks like it has just been built.  To keep a church in such good condition requires the dedicated care of the parishioners. The very large courtyard in front is a nice vantage point for us to stand and take a photo of the entire church, its facade as well as both sides which feature a number of beautiful Saints’ statues. 

 

We were fortunate to visit the church just as a celebration seemed to be underway. Mass had just ended and the very friendly parishioners invited me and my son into the chapel and allowed us to take pictures. They even turned on all the lights to make sure we had enough light to take some beautiful photos, so we were very grateful.

 

Our next destination is Hung Nghia Church located in Hai Hung commune, Hai Hau district, about 30km from the city. I had heard that this is one of the most beautiful churches in Nam Dinh and we’re not disappointed. I had already seen images on the internet, but when I am able to see it with my own eyes, I am still overwhelmed by the splendid and magnificent beauty I see. It’s like an ancient castle you might find in Europe with domes combined. Seen from the outside, the church exudes a splendid and captivating beauty with its gray color.

 

According to historians, Hung Nghia Shrine was built in 1927 and followed the style-Gothic architecture of France and Spain. However, over time the shrine has deteriorated seriously, so in 2000, Hung Nghia parish started to restore, repair and, after just seven years, the shrine had been renovated. Despite being ‘dressed in a new outfit’, the Hung Nghia shrine has still retained its ancient beauty and it is still called “The Frozen Shrine” by local parishioners.

 

The closer you stand to observe the church, the more clearly you will see the shrine is an extremely elaborate and monumental structure. The front of the shrine is built according to the structure of the Western church with two tall towers on both sides; in the middle is the main entrance to the cathedral and above there are memorials in honour of Our Lady of La Vang and Scared heart of Jesus. Inside the main hall is a larger and open space and can receive the natural light of the sun.

 

This "frozen shrine" is also a popular “check-in” place for couples taking wedding photos. When we arrived there were indeed a few couples posing for photos. I imagine if they did not specify the check-in address, perhaps their friends would believe that they were on their honeymoon in Europe.

 

After departing from the legendary "frozen shrine", we traveled a long distance to reach Phuong Chinh Parish in Hai Trieu commune, Hai Hau district. According to historical records, the church was built in 1995 and completed in 1998. Phuong Chinh Parish Church is outstanding with its "Indochina Roccoco" style that combines Roman, Gothic and Northwest African architectural influences. As the church was built on alluvial soil, the parishioners had to remove mud up to 3m deep, and build 15,000 stable bamboo piles, before laying concrete to build the church’s foundation. On May 15, 2008, Bishop Joseph Hoang Van Tiem signed the title of promotion for Phuong Chinh parish church to one of holy churches in the diocese to pay homage to St. Peter and St. Paul.

 

According to parishioners here, Phuong Chinh Church is one of the most beautiful and special churches of Hai Hau in particular and Nam Dinh in general, because it not only has the architectural combination of several continents but also because the Catholics here always attend Mass dressed up very nicely as if they’re attending a large festival.

 

 

From observing many churches, Phuong Chinh Church definitely has some unique features that other churches don’t have. For example, the wrought iron railings with are painted in a light blue color which is the same color tone as the upper windows of the church. You can freely take photos all around the church. And admire the structure’s dark gray hue, which, if the weather is clear, stands out against the blue sky. This is also an ideal place for brides in their pristine white wedding dresses to pose for photos.

 

On our trip, time went by so quickly. As the sun began to fade, we rushed back to Nam Dinh city to go to Nam Dinh Cathedral and Khoai Dong Church to see Mr. Phung again. We returned as a service was in progress. The carpark was full outside the church. We had really wanted to go inside the church but it was too full so we wandered around outside taking photos.

 

Nam Dinh Cathedral was built in 1895. It has a simple design that still exudes a great sense of wonder. Although the scale of the church is not large, it always has a majestic appearance in my eyes. The main facade of the church looks toward Tran Hung Dao street. There is also a large square with flower beds and a monument to Our Lady of Mary. This is a venue for major holidays in Nam Dinh and it is considered to be the center of Christianity for local catholics. Although Nam Dinh Cathedral is not as magnificent and splendid as some churches in Hai Hau, it is an ancient church with a rich history. Our last destination was Khoai Dong church. Along with Dalat Cathedral, this one of only two churches in Vietnam to worship Saint Nicolas (for those who don’t know Saint Nicolas is the original Santa Claus).

 

The church was built in 1934 on an area of 5,800sqm. It is an outstanding example of Gothic architecture, featuring curved domes that are supported with a system of curved cement beams. On the walls are pillars with ornate statues of various saints including St. Patrick, St. Peter, and St. Joseph.

 

Over 85 years old, Khoai Dong Church is still a majestic sight located on a quiet and graceful plot of land on the banks of the romantic Vi Xuyen lake. The image of the church and its serene surroundings has a huge symbolic place in the hearts of generations of Nam Dinh's people. It is also considered to be a symbol of Thanh Nam Old Quarter.

 

It was already dark when we entered the church courtyard. After taking some photos in the yard and in the church, I went to find Mr. Phung, but could not find him. The security guard told me that Mr. Phung had returned to Lam Dong to continue his studies and no longer worked there. I got on the bus to go back to Hanoi, feeling a little bit regretful that I could not meet Mr. Phung to hear more of his very meaningful and interesting stories and thoughts on life and religion. I told myself, I have more reasons to return to this place soon!

 

 

Here is the list of 15 most beautiful and unique churches in Nam Dinh you should must visit.

1. Nam Dinh Cathedral (No. 16 Hai Ba Trung Street, Tran Hung Dao Ward, Nam Dinh City)

2. Khoai Dong Church (127 Le Hong Phong Street, Nam Dinh City)

3. Bui Chu Church (Xuan Ngoc Commune, Xuan Truong District, Nam Dinh Province)

4. Phu Nhai Church (Xuan Phuong Commune, Xuan Truong District, Nam Dinh Province)

5. Hung Nghia Church (Hai Hung Commune, Hai Hau District, Nam Dinh Province)

6. Kim Thanh Church (Hai Van Commune, Hai Hau District, Nam Dinh Province)

7. Phuong Chinh Church (Hai Trieu Commune, Hai Hau District, Nam Dinh Province)

8. Kien Lao Church (Xuan Tien Commune, Xuan Truong District, Nam Dinh Province).

9. Trung Linh Church (Xuan Ngoc Commune, Xuan Truong District, Nam Dinh Province)

10. Hai Ly Church (Hai Ly Commune, Hai Hau District, Nam Dinh Province)

11. Sa Chau Church (Giao Chau Commune, Giao Thuy District, Nam Dinh Province)

12. Phu An Church (Cat Thanh, Truc Ninh Town, Nam Dinh Province)

13. Dai Lai Church (Vinh Hao Commune, Vu Ban District, Nam Dinh Province)

14. Vinh Phu Church (Nghia Loi Commune, Nghia Hung District, Nam Dinh Province) 

15.Trang Hau Church (Nam Hai Commune, Nam Truc District, Nam Dinh Province)

Bich Hop